Hey everyone, Not sure if this is the right place to post, but I have a question about some water spots that I'm having trouble removing on my car. Recently purchased 1 month old BMW 335, did a thorough wash, clay, sealed twice with JetSeal and topped off with 2 coats of 50/50. A water pipe was leaking in my apartment complex garage, and I didn't think much of it at the time as I thought my sealant/wax combo should have adequate protection (only less than a month old!) I tried washing my car last week, using CWG instead of my usual ONR, and noticed that the water spots were still there. I even tried using a bit of clay to hopefully get it out, but it seems to have embedded with the wax? :shrug: Anybody have any suggestions?? I'm stumped :crasy:
I would presume the minerals in the water have compromised the sealant/wax combo and etched the finish. You should be able to remove them via compounding and/or polishing. If this proves ineffective, you will have to wet sand, compound, and then polish. Just remember to use the least aggressive approach.
Swissvax cleaner fluid or any other paint cleaner (or Klasse AIO) will take care of it probably. If not it has etched into the finish and needs to be polished out.
The best way I have found to remove them is with GLARE Zero It's a molecular fusion compound. With a rotary at 1000 to 1800 rpm, apply a small amount of product onto a foam pad and cover the effected area with it then start off at 1800 rpm and the zero will actually melt them out without removing any paint It will also suck out abrasive polish dust like you get from strong compounds that enter the paint pores due to heat from paint correction the clarity and smoothness the paint will have is totally amazing my sisters new Ford XR5 turbo mondeo had long term water spots when it arrived and after some rain showers. instead of hard cleaners or cutting the paint, I used the Zero. it works every time.
I personally would try some polish by hand. My brother had the same issue, came out with no problems on his Audi paint...
Water Spots If you look at a highly- magnified cut-away of a base/clear-coat, water-based paint system it resembles a sponge. The resin system is what holds it together; part of the system has been corrosively eaten away that is why acid rain damage is seen as etching or pitting. The misnomer ‘water spots’ are caused by a moderate to high alkaline or acidic solution, both of which can cause paint discolouration, surface etching (a concave circular mark and pitting) leaving microscopic surface imperfections and micro pores in the paint film surface that are vulnerable to deterioration, which need to be removed and naturalized as soon as possible. There are two categories of water spot- Stage One Corrosion [: defined as a surface with light to moderate corrosion damage to the paint surface] Stage Two Corrosion [: definition when the dirt/corrosion deposits are no longer on the surface but have started to break down the molecular structure, leaving an etched or white haze on the surface after the stain has been removed, with moderate to serious paint damage] a) Surface water spots- (Stage One Corrosion) alkaline watermarks consist of calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg) both of which are basic (alkaline pH 10) that alight on the surface; ultra violet (heat) radiation (UVR) will leave a white ‘water mark’, the minute crystals bond to the surface, they will not wash off as they are insoluble and if left for any length of time they will etch the paint film surface leaving a concave circular mark, remove surface deposits with detailer’s clay and an acetic acid pH 2.0 (vinegar) to naturalise the alkaline b) Below surface (etched) spots- (Stage Two Corrosion ) are caused by an aggressive alkaline or an acidic solution (acid rain, bird excrement or industrial fallout) causing a chemical reaction, if left for any length of time they will etch the paint film surface leaving a concave circular mark. Unlike water spots which typically have a white outline of the spot, acid rain etching is smaller and you can see the damage in the clear coat. Etched acid rain spots are one of the most difficult paint defects to remove so be patient as it will probably take more then one attempt to remove them. Acid spots require an abrasive polish to level the surface (some stubborn marks may require wet sanding) and an alkaline solution to neutralize them, simply rinsing a vehicle with deionised water or tap water activates / reactivates the acid concentrates. An extract from one of a series of in-depth © detailing articles by TOGWT ™
