I've finally decided to purchase a paint meter, but I've been asking myself this question over and over again: The Defelsko DFT, for example, measures the thickness of the paint, but how specifically would this help you to determine the thickness of the clear? The primer/base coats may comprise most of the reading, whereas the clear might contribute a low number of microns. Conversely, the primer/base may be thin and the clear is thick. Maybe I'm over-analyzing this, but anyone if anyone with paint meter experience could help shed some light on this issue I would be very appreciative. Of course, if this has been discussed before, a link to an existing thread would be great as well. Thanks!
They don't measure the different layers but., as you get familiar, you are able to determine, based on the individual car, how much of the overall thickness is primer, vs. paint vs. clear. Good move on stepping up to the PTM/G. I really don't know how one can confidently perform correction work without the meter. I have the 6000 and 200. While the 6000 doesn't measure layers, my 200 claims - if I read the pamphlet correctly - it does measure layers but, the 200 is designed for composites. These will be good investments!!
There's no way to distinguish the layers or how thick each one is. Most people go off of about 90 as very thin, probably too thin to correct. It's great at identifying areas that have been re-painted though.
Thanks for the info! Regarding the 200, do you find that it's useful for painted plastic bumpers and rocker panels, or more for cars that have all of their body panels made of something other than metal?
The 200 does in fact offer measurement of layers. At least, that's the way I read it in the literature. I'm not a techno kinda guy but, I know in fact the literature suggests that it measures layers. Maybe I'm reading it wrong but, verbatim it reads, "meter measures up to 3 individual layers of thickness in a multi-layer system and features a graphic readout for detailed analysis of each coating system.":shead: But, I can't figure how to program it for that function, if it is what I think it is. Heck, I need my 10 year old to help me work my cell phone!!!
For me, bumpers are the areas that require special care. I try to do the bumpers BEFORE opening the beer fridge:yikes: The big issue is the edges are the primary area of concern. And, while I try to stay away from wool, foam can burn through paint just as quickly if you're not paying attention. If bumper readings are thin, I work them by hand. I'm a scardycat!!!
I try to go easy on plastic bumpers, but I just can't justify purchasing a 200 at this point. Thank you both for the info.
Well I own both PosiTector 6000 and 200 both are great gauges and play an important role when I detail. The PosiTector 200 does read lawyers but you have to purchase the advance gauge not the basic, basic gauge will only give you a total reading much like the 6000. The advanced model will give you up to three different lawyers. If I remember correctly, the first lawyer is the clear coat the second layer (if you have the gauge set to read only two layers) is the primer and paint. The thing is that sometimes the gauge can't read all three lawyers and this is due to how the vehicles are painted at body shops or manufacture. As for the PosiTector 6000, it does not give you different lawyers like the 200 so it will only give a total reading. There is a gauge that works just like the 200 but it's worth a significant amount of money. Now some members don't go with the PosiTector 6000, they simply go with the DFT Combo. The difference between the DFT vs PosiTector 6000 is that the 6000 gauge will store up to 10,000 paint readings and you can save the readings for future reference. This is handy when you have repeat customers, it's always good to keep track of the clear coat...well at least I think so. But if you don't need nor want to save the paint gauge readings then stick with the DFT combo, it will get the job done. As far as readings go it depends, I mean on metal/aluminum panels readings such as 90microns are actually not bad. When you see readings as 90microns that just means you wouldn't want to be doing a cut polish (aggressive cut that is) every year. If you see 50microns readings on metal/aluminum you can not do any aggressive polishing what's so ever. 50 microns is extremely low and on the brink of striking through the clear coat. Oh areas such as bumpers, fiberglass...ect..ect..readings such as 90microns is actually really good because that's about 40microns of clear coat and the rest is base coat/paint. I know this because like I said I have the PosiTector 200 and out of all the vehicles I've detailed the plastic areas or fiberglass panels have lots of clear coat...usually but not always. That's why it's so important to have proper paint gauges, you wont want to be polishing blind folded. Well I hope this helps but this is just my opinion/experiance.
