I've just moved to DFW, TX area where temperatures are hitting 105F (41C) & climbing & I'm wondering what it is the best heat-resistant paint sealant out there, a sealant that is more suitable for extreme hot climates. My car is currently sealed with 1 coat of Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze & 2 coats of Danase Paint Sealant & topped with 2 coats of Danase Wet Glaze & I don't know whether this combination can resist such high heat on a daily basis.
FK Hi Temp 1000p, can be layered as soon as it is buffed off or topped. Apply thin and it will be easy on and off or DG 501 both are amazing on wheels and DG 501 is awesome on chrome
Your system looks good, except I would'nt use the wet glaze as an LSP. DWG is a great product, but not very durable.
It's not quite as hot here in NC as it gets in Texas, but still pretty hot. Bilt-Hamber Auto Balm is holding up great on my black F250.
Paint sealants are much more durable then carnauba waxes. With that said, I think most of good sealants will last through the heat with no issues. I personally like DG 601/105 combo, as well as Klasse twins combo for max durability. Zaino Z-2 ZFX'ed is also very durable.
You're a liar. I experienced it. And it was 105 the full day I was there according to weather.com . (80*F at 9am when I got up.. :thud: ) I may need to pick up the DG combo for wheels.. right now I use werkstat but it seems DG is the favorite.
Fracture/evaporation temperatures Polymers (including Acrylic polymers) 350.oF, Silicone oil 350.oF, Mineral oils 200.oF, Synthetic blends (Carnauba wax / polymers) 300.oF, Carnauba wax 183.oF, is among the highest of natural waxes, Bee’s wax 130.oF. In actual practice the high temperatures frequently encountered by vehicles from the radiation causes wax compounds to melt, for example, a painted surfaces exposed to ambient temperatures of 85.oF in direct sunlight, will obtain a temperature of 195.oF or more. It should be noted that there is a range of temperatures at which melting begins and that the 'melting point' is the end point of that range The most important thing to be aware of when preparing to wax your car is the temperature of the actual surface area being waxed. This is even more important than the ambient temperature, which should be between 50.oF and 80.oF (10° - 26.7.°C). Collinite FK 1000P Zaino Duragloss, and etc
41ºC is nothing to most LSP's - carnauba doesn't even begin to melt until you're into the high 70's, low 80's. Softening will occur before that, thereby trapping more contamination than would otherwise - but not so bad as to necessitate rewaxing weekly, unless you're using P21S! As far as sealants go - you'll be fine with whatever you run with.
What is the implication if i am to wax the car with the ambient temperature above 26.7 degree? Will it just take longer for it to bond or it will not bond properly at all? My vote will go to Fk1000p for sealant.
The carrier system, which helps the wax spread and stay semi-liquid is formulated with solvents and oils, if you apply wax to a hot surface its carrier system will vaporize. This is the reason mfg's recommend that products are not used in hot direct sun
But what if i am applying the LSP at a ambient tempt of above 26.7 but under a shelter area and the car panel is cool to touch.. Any idea does it affect the LSP bonding process?
No, it will just cure quicker, so you may need to restrict the size of the area you're working on at any one time before buffing off. Simple e-mail to the reseller or the manufacturer will give you the answer you need, if not already mentioned on the product or their website.
As far as I'm concerned, you don't need to. Just use AW every other wash or so and you'll be golden. If you really, really want to, wait 2 hours after and then repeat with both.
Apply 601 to the paint. Then without removing 601, apply 105. Once its cured, you can buff it off with AW. Both 601 and 105 have chemical cleaners, so Im not sure you can layer much beyond one application.
