Greetings all, New to the forum, just posted an intro after harvesting enough knowledge to make my head explode. Although I've been a shiny car guy forever, I'm new to detailing on this level and have some questions re: my experiences thus far. I've used my new PC with a variety of polishes and pads to get the hang of things on my late-model, white GMC pickup. The finish has only minimal imperfections and it's not a good color to start with as it's difficult to really see what's happening. My girlfriend's black Hyundai SUV is going to be my first project. From 20 ft away on an overcast day it looks pretty good. Under the halogens it's a mess. Swirls, spiderwebs, acid rain waterspots, light scratches..... everything you'd expect from a vehicle that's neglected and when it does get the rare wash and wax, it's all done haphazardly. I washed and clayed the vehicle and decided to use the hood as a testbed. I started with a PC and white LC polishing pad with Megs #9 just to see what the result would be. I misted the new, dry pad with QD and primed it and spread and worked the polish as instructed in online guides and demos. Not much in the way of results.... increased gloss but no defects were removed. I moved to Megs # 83 on a white LC pad. After two applications I still saw minimal results. Since #83 is the most aggressive polish I have on hand I moved up a step on the pad and switched to an orange LC. After the first application some of the light spiderwebs and swirl marks subsided but not to the degree I'd hoped. On the second application I slowed my movements and lingered longer on the worst defects with increased pressure. Some improvement but not what I'd expected after seeing numerous PC demo videos online. Next step was the yellow pad, which I hadn't seen used in any of the online demo vids that got such outstanding results. After a couple of applications working M83 into the finish the swirl marks and spiderwebs were gone but the water spots remained. Under normal garage lighting the hood looks pretty good, high gloss, no holograms or hazing. But under the halogens the waterspots are all over the place. I pulled out an old bottle of PerfectIt II fine-cut compound and worked a small spot by hand with some improvement on the spots. I'm open to suggestions. Although I've been using a Makita rotary on my personal vehicles for years I've been limited to using a pre-wax cleaner and Collinite 845 because I really hadn't needed much more. Basically I'd been using the rotary as an elbow-grease substitute rather than as a tool for correction. Until I'd seen some of the PC demo videos online and reviewed the many detailing guides I was unaware of the possibilities. Plus now that I have the halogen lighting I can actually SEE the defects! It appears I'm going to have to get fairly aggressive to get rid of the waterspots. Just *how* aggressive is the question? Although I have a variety of pads and MF with the PC I've yet to acquire an inventory of products and polishes yet as I wanted to see how a few of the things I already had were going to work. I don't know if shelf-life is an issue but the M9, 83 and PerfectIt II have been on the shelf for more than a few years getting infrequent use. It occurs to me that I may be in for a full compounding session with the Makita and a cutting pad, something I've never done..... especially on black! And on a vehicle owned by someone else! :gasp: Appreciate thoughts, comments and recommendations, TL
See article 'Water Spot Removal' DetailingWiki a series of informative, unbiased articles dedicated to automotive detailing.
Water spots can be nasty, i have seen some that only wetsanding will get out...laughs at a rotary even...the PC is difficult to reach the kind of correction that it sounds to me like you are trying to accomplish...why not whip out the rotary and try an orange pad and the fine cut compound? Even 83 will give them a run..if you have the rotary, i wouldnt mess around with a PC on a job like this...even if you do get the results that you are after, it will be after 3 times as long as if u had used the rotary....and on Meg's #9, in my experience it has almost 0 corrective abilities, but contains a large amount of fillers. If you do an IPA wipedown on the spots that you used #9 on then you will be even more upset....here is my recommendation, take it as you will Makita Rotary using 3M Fine cut compound Makita with 83 on white Then insert a finishing polish, you could try 9 but like i said..... And most of all.....best of luck!
Thanks for the reply, great minds think alike. :worship2: I've been waiting for some products to arrive, Menz PG, IP & 106ff along with an assortment of 4" pads and backing plate. The only pads I currently have for the Makita are 8" wool. I'm going to give that a go starting with the least aggressive polishes on an inconspicuous place before going whole hog. I expect I'll probably save the PC for the finishing work. This is my first correction of serious defects on black. I've been hesitent to get too aggressive as my arsenal is still a bit on the sparse side. I think once FedEx gets here today I'll have the assortment I need to polish and refine without worrying about not having something I need. Thanks again... TL
